Let me try my hand at this. We have a planned trip to Vietnam, and the possibility of the car breaking down on the way to airport enabled us to have a pick up from the apartment at 3am for a quick drive to Pearson, where we waited to wait some more to board the 7am UA flight to San Francisco. Five + hours later, we landed and waited another 2 or so hours in the SFO airport for our next leg to Hong Kong. Just short of another 14 hours later, we arrived in Hong Kong where we waited 2 or so more hours over Popeye's chicken, the obligatory Hong Kong layover meal, for our last leg to Saigon. Another couple hours or so; who's counting. Believe it or not, no movies were watched, only one chapter of a book was read, and a couple of so-called meals were eaten, the rest of the time was spent sleeping. No sleep the night prior to the flight, and a few sleep-eze from Shoppers did the trick.
On arrival into the 'new' Tan Son Nhat airport in Saigon, now with two levels (!!!), we got our bags and wheeled to a taxi who now needs to pay a toll (?) who would then take us to the Hotel Majestic on Dong Khoi St. Built in 1925, the hotel, needless to say, is pretty awesome. High ceilings, arched hallways, hardwood floors, courtyard pool, open air breakfast buffet, old pictures of what the hotel looked like in years past, small elevators, cool paintings...
Shortly after checking in I was walking to Pham Ngu Lao St. to rent a motorbike. Walking in Saigon is for suckers, and getting a bike is like Christmas, but as it was after 11pm I was unable to get a bike the first night. I guess I didnt really need one as it was almost midnight. The 'Hau' guesthouse, that was once home, is still kicking, and Pham Ngu Lao still really feels the same just with more 'backpackers' and their Thai pants; and much more commerce. There is even a 'Saigon Ink' tattoo shop. The Crazy Buffalo bar/nonsense quite possibly takes the proverbial cake with its 'subtle' corner storefront. Guesthouses, restaurants, cafes and travel agents used to be a portion of Pham Ngu Lao St., De Tham, and Bui Vien but soon Tran Hung Dao St. will surely need to volunteer more of its real estate to cater to the incoming masses. Most importantly, Sasa Cafe, Santa Cafe, and Pepperonis are still in the same spot and look, for the most part, no different. Talk about holding on to the past.
No bike, and a burning desire to buy sandals at close to the midnight hour, I take a different route back to Dong Khoi St. After dodging a few rats while passing the bus station in front of Ben Thanh Market, and after being offered many 'massages' by girls on bikes, I was back at the hotel. An awesome hotel. Night one over; the morning couldn't come soon enough.
Sleep was short, and breakfast overlooked the Saigon River. As mentioned walking is for suckers, and we were in a cab heading to Pham Ngu Lao to get a bike at Chi's Cafe. Chi was outside where her cafe once stood, and after a doubletake recognized us and said her cafe was moving next door. Next door was a construction site where hammocks containing the workers were hung the night prior, so bikes were to be rented from another guesthouse up the alley. Soon enough we had our Honda Wave and Saigon truly felt like home as we drove quite possibly everywhere. First stop was our old apartment on Ngo Tat To street. Clearly the best neighbourhood ever as we had an iced coffee at a new Trung Nguyen cafe outside the entrance.
A few stares later, we headed out past our old photocopy shop and Emily's clothing stores before the bike ran out of gas. Bikes in Saigon rarely have working odometers, and the guy we rented it from said there was gas in it, so we headed out without thinking twice. Good thing, the Petrolimex wasn't too far and we had a full tank for less than USD$2. Next, our other place on Le Van Sy St., which looks pretty much the same, sans our 'variety stall' at the end of the alley, before more driving and looking around. Burnt faces and arms are a quick reminder that we don't actually live here anymore, so another cafe and a smoothie was in order at the Annam Cafe on Truong Dinh St. A late lunch was at our often frequented Sasa Cafe with yet another smoothie before heading back to the hotel. Two banana shakes and one strawberry smoothie, good day.
There was surely more in the day, but we are going to have breakfast now so I'll summarize.
- Walking to the Tax Department store
- Buying long sleeve shorts to cover my arms
- A look at souvenirs that for the most part haven't changed since 2002; likely even earlier
- Looked in some shops that have nice stuff that costs more money than the souvenirs we had just looked at
- Then looked in the obligatory propaganda poster shop
- Return to the hotel
- Lady sleeps, while I wander along the river
- I sleep
